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Insider's Guide To Venice with Skye McAlpine

In our new monthly article, we profile a travel destination with special insider knowledge because as we all know, the best travel experience is when we arrive with insider tips for an authentic and memorable stay.

First up? Venice and it simply had to be Skye McAlpine, the wonderful cookery author of A Table in Venice, A Table For Friends, A Table Full of Love; creator of Skye McAlpine Tavola (heavenly Venetian-inspired tableware); Sunday Times columnist and part-time resident of Venice, where her heart remains even she's back in England.

Here Skye spills her Venetian secrets...

Visit I the winter to have the city to yourself, misty days, hard-core sight-seeing and cosy indulgent meals indoors...

Your connection with Venice?
I grew up in Venice and still call it home. My parents moved there from London on a whim, when I was six years old, and we never really left. Now I divide my time between London (where my husband works) and Venice.

When did you first visit?
I can’t remember my first time in Venice. We’ve been visiting the city all my life, even before we moved there… but I’m always quite jealous of people when they say it’s their first time in Venice, as it must be such a magical and surreal experience to see it for the first time.

Best time to visit?
Winter to have the city to yourself, misty days, hard-core sight-seeing and cosy indulgent meals indoors. Summer for hot, sunny days, boat rides out into the lagoon and meals sitting by the water.

Where to Stay?
The Gritti Palace for a dash of old Venetian glamour; the Palazzo Experimental for something fresh and a little contemporary; and Cima Rosa for somewhere cosy and characterful.

Where to Shop?
Chiarastella Cattana for the chicest linens; La Casa del Parmigiano for exquisite cheeses, cured meats, pickles and fresh pasta; Mascari for sweets, spices and deliciously exotic liquors

Where to Dine?
I love Al Covo for a special treat: it’s cosy and the most delicious traditional Venetian food. For breakfast I love pastries and hot chocolate at Rosa Salva in Campo San Giovanni e Paolo. For a relaxed pizza on a sunny day with the children, I love a table by the waterside at Ae Oke on the Zattere.

Any local market days?
the Rialto market every morning (except Sunday and Monday) is a must for fresh fruit, vegetables, fish and seafood. I also love the barges that sell fruit and veg in Campo San Barnaba and Via Garibaldi - they’re super picturesque and always have wonderful fresh produce.

 

 

Visit in the summer for hot, sunny days, boat rides out into the lagoon and meals sitting by the water...

Any local market days?
The Rialto market every morning (except Sunday and Monday) is a must for fresh fruit, vegetables, fish and seafood. I also love the barges that sell fruit and veg in Campo San Barnaba and Via Garibaldi - they’re super picturesque and always have wonderful fresh produce.

Best place for a morning espresso?
I love a coffee and a pastry standing at the bar at Bar Rizzardini (they do the best ricotta cake, sold by the slice) and at Pasticceria Tonolo (if you go early, they have fresh doughnuts called ‘krapfen’ which are to die for)

Best spot for an aperitif?
a spritz and cicchetti (Venetian nibbles) standing at the bar at All’Arco by the Rialto. For a glamorous aperitivo, you can’t beat the terrace on the water, watching the boats and the world go by, at the Gritti Palace.

Local delicacy?
‘focaccia Veneziana’: it’s a little like a sweet, plain panettone, topped with a sugar crust. You can buy it in most pasticcerie and it tastes as light as air.

Good to know...
If you take your coffee standing at the bar, it’s a fraction of the price than if you sit down at a table in the cafe.

Be a polite tourist and…
don’t picnic in streets and be mindful of people walking to work or going about their daily business when you stop in the middle of the street to take a photo or look around.