My Cotswolds Guide
Where to stay, visit, eat, shop & relax in the place I call home...
I have lived in The Cotswolds for over 15 years with my husband Charlie and our three boys - the youngest two were born here and so it has become very much our family base, from which we’ve grown roots.
Established in 1966, The Cotswolds is the largest ‘Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty’ (AONB) in the UK, covering 790 square miles across five counties from Warwickshire to Bath. Renowned for its Jurassic limestone, honey-coloured stone villages, and rolling hills, it features extensive wildflower meadows, ancient beech woods, and the steep Cotswold Escarpment.
The views are far-reaching and the villages are mostly tiny; the seasons gentle and increasingly, there is good coffee and food aplenty. Our home is in the north of the Cotswolds between Oxford and Burford (stay tuned for my friend’s Oxford Insider guide coming soon!) but I find myself driving all around the countryside - throughout Oxfordshire and Gloucestershire mainly, and sometimes further afield into Wiltshire too - and every single day I am struck by the surrounding beauty in one way or another.
I grew up in a very rural part of Wales so I am very much drawn to nature and the countryside. Prior to moving to The Cotswolds, we lived in London and in the south of France, so The Cotswolds was not somewhere I knew very well apart from occasional weekends spent with friends. When we moved, it became a new playground for my boys and I to discover and develop the feeling of ‘home’. As a popular tourist destination and weekender idyll, fads in The Cotswolds come and go but the really special places stand the test of time.
Here I share my favourite haunts, rate the obvious gems and share a few of my secret places…
To Stay
I’m always being asked about where to stay and there really is something for everyone here in The Cotswolds, with new places popping up all the time. Whether it’s a pub stay, something more all-inclusive, with family or as a couple - or simply to treat yourself with, here are my top picks:
Soho Farmhouse, Chipping Norton
Although part of the Soho House members franchise, Soho Farmhouse feels like an entity all of its own and at the heart of the North Cotswolds golden triangle. It’s got wonderful places all around - from Chippy Flower Farm to The Old Coal Yard and plenty of options in itself for coffee, food, beauty and wellness, great fitness classes, a pool, tennis and padel, and a space to work if one needs. Plus a fantastic shop curated by Alex Eagle, it’s definitely a must to visit. It feels low key and familiar with consistently good food. Pen Yen - the Japanese restaurant is a must and a rare Asian food delight in these parts.
Estelle Manor, Eynsham
Part of a larger group, Estelle Manor is like a luxurious oasis in the middle of the countryside. Both a members club and a five-start hotel, it feels very glamorous and spoily - the grounds and the interiors are next level. There is a fab outdoor pool but Enysham spa and baths are my absolute highlight. Plus a plethora of food choices. My go-to for working and coffees is the more casual Potting Shed, which is in the veg garden and next to the gym which does brilliant classes - I love Island Jam on a Tuesday. Also, there is a small but wonderfully curated shop called The Muse which is my go-to for present buying.
The Double Red Duke, Clanfield
If you want a much more low-key pub-style overnight stay, the red-and-white-striped Double Red Duke in Clanfield ticks the boxes with chic rooms, excellent elevated pub food, plenty of walks, a sunny garden to linger in over the summer, and cosy fireside feels in winter.
Thyme, Southrop
Described as ‘a botanical breather, away from life’s bustle’, Thyme feels like a rather quiet, luxurious respite with beautiful rooms, delicious seasonal and local food and wonderful treatments. Close enough to be able to visit all the favourite haunts but also a little removed and therefore, relaxing too. Despite its peaceful feeling, there’s a lot going on with workshops and guest events to keep one inspired throughout the seasons. And their village pub, The Swan is a perfect spot to visit, whether staying or not…
Fairgreen Farm Guesthouse
If looking for a non-hotel option, Fairgreen Farm Guesthouse, owned and decorated by the uber stylish Cotswold resident, Amanda Brookes would be my choice. A brilliant position quite near Stow-on-the-Wold, staying here will feel like you’re a Cotswold resident in the know.
Daylesford Stays
Rooted in the rolling hills and valleys surrounding Daylesford, Daylesford Stays offers a quintessential Cotswolds stay - connected, collected, curated experiences as well as lots of room choices - from their cottages on site at Daylesford to surrounding, charming, village pubs - The While Rabbit, Kingham; The Fox, Oddington; The Bell, Charlbury and The Three Horseshoes, Asthall.
Other special mentions go to Cowley Manor (for old-school hotel service and consistently great experience), Bull Bar & Hotel, Burford (to experience the charm of Burford and get buzz of somewhere everyone talks about), Hyll Hotel, Chipping Camden (a newbie on the scene I haven’t visited but hear great things about), The Rectory (for old school charm and comfort), The Pig (for quintessentially honey-coloured Cotswolds charm with a modern twist near Cirencester) and for something very different, Canopy & Stars (a selection of charming glamping escapes).
Other favourites are Belmond Le Manoir, The Bull, Charlbury, Cotswold Farm Hideaway and Armada Cottage in Charlbury.
Where else have you stayed, would you recommend or what is on your wishlist?
To Visit
There is so much to see here in The Cotswolds and depending on who you’re visiting with and what season you’re in, you may tip the balance more to gardens and boating or pub fires and bracing walks. In the summer, there are country village fairs and fetes, outdoor music festivals, visiting circus shows, and water sports on rivers and lakes. In the winter, there are village pantomimes, outdoor ice skating rinks, Christmas fairs and many a village pub fireside roast post walk waiting for you. Here are some of my favourite places to visit (from A-Z as can't rank by favourites! ) - some well-known and others worth a visit in my opinion.
Aston Pottery & Gardens is a one of those places I drove past every day but never took the time to stop and visit. But now whenever I need a quick immersion into colour and nature, I stop! It’s a small ceramics studio and cafe but what I love are the flowers in the garden adjacent, particularly in dahlia season. Stop for a look and a cup of tea, just outside the lovely village of Bampton.
Blenheim Palace is very near me and a wonderful place to take visitors, to take advantage of their brilliant events - I’m going to watch Alanis Morisette play next weekend. Christmas lights, Giffords Circus, pretty picnic spots and best of all, walking for miles. Nearby Woodstock is a pretty village with great coffee and excellent antique shops.
Burford Garden Co is a one of my favourite local hang outs and a great place to meet a girlfriend for lunch. It sells much more than just plants; brilliant for man presents, foodie presents, books (I while away hours in their bookshop), seeds, bulbs, dahlia tubers, roses, gifts, ready meals… And lots of easy parking unlike in the town of Burford itself which is two minutes away.
Ham Court Bampton (once called Bampton Castle) is a wonderful, historic home with a beautiful kitchen garden and farmland - a private home belonging to Matthew Rice the British illustrator and author - and also to his daughter, Lil who runs Fools Delight Circus. I have met some of you here before as we have often hosted workshops and events in the fabulous barn space. It is opened up to visitors on occasion for garden tours and Matthew hosts fabulous watercolour and other workshops (check out the calendar of events). Bampton is a very pretty edge-of-Cotswolds village and location for town scenes for Downtown Abbey.
Cotswold Wildlife Park & Gardens is a must if visiting with children. Located very near the picturesque must-visit Cotswold’s village, Burford, this is a zoo experience that feels very relaxed and sensitive to both the animals and the environment. There are wonderful pubs nearby to make a day of it.
Chippy Flower Farm is a seasonal flower farm in the heart of The Cotswolds (2 mins from Soho Farmhouse) run by the divine Tif Loehnis. She moved to the area and not only started the farm but a movement of celebrating biodiversity and the beauty of flowers, and the team are all so lovely. In the summer months, there is a wonderful PYO and a host of workshops throughout the year. A must visit (as are the villages of Great and Little Tew either side).
Circus! Fools Delight run by Lil Rice is a wonderful, local circus show and dinner with delicious food from the kitchen garden at Bampton House. Giffords Circus is often popping up around The Cotswolds too so keep an eye out on either of these when you’re visiting.
Diddy Squat Farm Shop needs no introduction, in fact any visitor from all over the world, no matter their age seems to want directions to Clarkson’s Farm! Located very near Chipping Norton, Diddly Squat is an excellent farm shop with delicious farm-grown food and …. merch!
Kelmscott Manor was once the home of celebrated British designer William Morris, father of the arts and crafts movement. Open over the summer months, it’s a very picturesque and educational visit of this quintessential Manor House.
Rousham Gardens is one of England’s most important gardens - a fine example of the first phase of English landscape design and has remained almost as its designer William Kent left it for 18th century visitors. It’s a wonderfully beautiful and relaxing place to visit - walk amongst the gardens and take a picnic and open every day from 10am year round but no dogs or children under 15 allowed!
Tetbury is a Cotswolds town that is quite far from me but a wonderful destination, known for its antique shops. Very near Cirencester and is very pretty, quintessential Cotswolds set amongst stunning scenery. Westonbirt Arboretum has beautiful gardens just outside Tetbury.
The Cotswolds Guy is a well-known name now, their much-loved sausage rolls from their cafe in Guiting Power (nr Cheltenham) were made more famous by local customer, Sir David Beckham. Owner Chris Davey has wonderful produce and delicious food in his farm shop + cafe, plus caters for parties up and down The Cotswolds.
The Old Coal Yard is a new outpost of creativity and culinary delights, and home to my little office! Run by The Public House Group (The Bull, Charbury; The Hero, Maida Vale; The Hart, Marylebone; The Pelican Notting Hill et al), it’s also home to Canteen the summer pop-up, open Thursday-Sunday, and Chloe’s Pilates too. Well worth a visit but book for Canteen well in advance…
The Big Feastival is an annual Cotswolds event on the August bank holiday weekend taking place in Alex James’ idyllic Cotswolds farm (you can camp there too), and brings together music from the UK’s biggest artists, Michelin-starred chefs, excellent street food and an exciting array of family activities.
Wilderness Festival is an annual event on the Cornbury Estate at Charlbury. If you’re visiting in the summer, it’s a must (July 30th - August 2nd this year) - you can get day passes or come for the whole weekend but tickets sell out fast. A beautiful spot for live music under the summer sky. At other times of the year, there are wonderful works on and around the Cornbury Estate outside Charlbury and plenty of pubs to revive in…
Other beautiful places to look out for are Buscot Park, Batsford Aborbeteum, Blockley Gardens, Sezincote, Stanway House & Fountain, Chasleton House, Painswick Rococo Garden, Iford Manor & Gardens, Westonbirt Arboretum and Fibrex Nurseries, Pershore (for pelargoniums).
Anywhere else you’d recommend to visit?
To Eat
There are many wonderful gems of the culinary variety in The Cotswolds and increasingly so. From excellent pubs to city-quality coffee and one-of-a-kind restaurants - many of which I am still yet to discover. Here are some of my favourite go-tos:
Worton Kitchen Garden is only a ten minute drive out of Oxford but you could be anywhere. It’s unassuming, a little bonkers and very charming. Set amongst the kitchen gardens, clucking hens and polytunnels, there are tables set up inside the cafe, greenhouse or outside in the fields, depending on the weather. There is filter coffee, a plethora of delicious cakes and kitchen-garden-grown lunches created with heart. There is also an outside loo which is (mostly) charming but good to know to warn more sensitive companions.
The Bull, Charlbury was our pub for many years so lots of heart and soul have gone into it and we still love to visit! Wonderful Sunday roasts, pizzas in the courtyard and rooms to stay that I once decorated myself! Now run by the brilliant Public House Group.
The Bell Inn, Langford is a wonderfully understated and excellent country pub in the pretty village of Langford. Run by Peter Creed and Tom Noest, who really know The Cotswolds - the food is excellent all year round but I particularly love it in winter when you have to stoop your head to get under the beams and by the fire. The Chicken Milanese and Sticky Toffee Pudding are superb.
The Bull Burford has been talked about a lot in recent years since it opened and for good reason. The Japanese-inspired tasting menu at Hiro is just what we all needed, a wonderful place for a special ocassion in the heart of beautiful Burford. It now has expanded to include rooms, gelato bars and other culinary delights.
Daylesford has restaurants, cafes and outdoor pizza ovens, and owns many wonderful old-style pubs in perfect Cotswolds locations - The Wild Rabbit, Kingham, The Bell, Charlbury, The Fox, Oddington, and The Three Horseshoes.
Other pubs worth going to for long lunches or cosy suppers are The Double Red Duke in Clanfield and The Masons Arms opposite; The Swan Inn, Swinbrook (one of the prettiest villages that was once home to The Mitford Sisters and so beautiful for a pre or post pub walk), The Swan in Southrop (part of Thyme), The Royal Oak in Ramsden, and The Swan in Bibury.
And I know there are many I’ve forgotten! Do add yours in the comments…
For a break from pub food, try an excellent curry at The Spice Lounge in Burford (they do take-away too if you’re staying nearby) or Cafe Le Raj in Chipping Norton (have also heard they deliver!). And Pen Yen at Soho Farmhouse is consistently excellent when only Japanese will do…
For coffee - you cannot go past Lynwood and Co, who have exploded in The Cotswolds bringing Aussie-worthy coffee to nine cafes and counting in Burford, Lechlade, Bampton, Cirencester, Fairford, Moreton in Marsh to name a few. Special mention also to Blakes Kitchen who have the best sourdough and famous cinnamon buns to go with excellent coffee and are in Clanfield (a short walk from The Double Red Duke), Coleshill near Lechlade and also at Soho Farmhouse.
Quince and Clover in Great Tew is the dream for coffee and pastries or tea and cake and in the prettiest spot. The Straw Kitchen at Whichford Pottery and Bruen Farm Shops & Cafe are both wonderful. Cafe de la Post in Chadlington also charming. D’Ambrosi Fine Foods in Stow-on-the-Wold is a wonderful deli and catering gem. Eleven (a charming terraced cafe, shop and gallery) and The Twig cafe are in the very popular, pretty Cotswolds village of Bibury.
For ice cream and gelato, visit Alfonso who has many Cotswolds locations and The Oxford Cow in Stow-on-the-Wold.
Where else would you recommend or want to visit?
To Shop
For antiques, I cannot go past Station Mill Antiques in Chipping Norton, it’s a treasure trove for sure. As mentioned, a trip further south west to Tetbury will also uncover antique gems and east to Woodstock which also has some great stores. There is also C’est Tout Interiors in Shipton Under Wychwood and Manfredi Schotten Antiques (excellent for sporting memorabilia) in Burford. Plus keep your eye open for charity shops in all the villages you pass by as I always pick up a vase or two or a wicker chair en route somewhere!
For fashion and a great curation, Store X at Soho Farmhouse benefits from Alex Eagle’s eagle style eye and I love it all, and the petite shop, The Muse, at Estelle Manor is also full of surprising delights, a really wonderful edit.
Burford Garden Co has something for everyone, not just plants (and the most charming selection of children’s gifts, toys, clothing and interior decor in the very back of the centre).
For menswear, William Crabtree & Sons has opened their second store outside London in Stow-on-the-Wold and is perfect for last minute weekend attire or gifts for your hosts (and you cannot beat the stripy colourful socks).
Daylesford is, of course, wonderful to wander around - from relishes to ceramics, potted pelargoniums to beautiful Bamford clothing with espresso in hand and plenty of options to linger and lunch.
In Stow-on-the-Wold, there’s a Penelope Chilvers store, Rustique and Country Home, the new GROVE England has just opened, a fabulous book store and William Crabtree as mentioned above.
In Burford, there are wicker baskets galore outside many stores including the local Co-Op and a wonderful brush company shop as well as a sweet shop and a fantastic shirting destination, The Oxford Shirt Company.
To Relax
With all the shopping, eating and country pursuits, sometimes you need a little more than a country walk, or an escape from all of that.
While so many of the hotels have fabulous spas and treatment rooms (Soho Farmhouse, Estelle, Thyme are all wonderful), it pays to know of some good local gems. Bamford Spa at Daylesford Farm always over delivers in terms of treatments and the most luxurious and dreamy environment, complete with crystals and bath robes.
Some of my other favourites for are Chloe’s Pilates - her classes are at The Coal Yard (where my office is!) and stay connected with her on Instagram to hear about fun days she does that involve wild swimming and more!
If you’re feeling like a little psychic reading, the magical Beth Taylor is at Bamford Spa on Tuesdays most weeks at Daylesford Farm (book ahead!).
For everything else - spa treatments, grooming, maintenance, fitness and even kids holiday sport, check out Lucie App for all the best wellness and beauty from your home or hotel in The Cotswolds.
For yoga, try the wonderful Nicole Croft (she also does classes at Chloe’s Pilates), or Sammy Scott from Samskara Lifestyle.
Where else would you recommend for treatments and pampering?
If you’re also a resident of The Cotswolds or visited recently, I’d love to know what I’m missing from this list that we can all visit, so please add your comments below.
And if you’re planning on visiting… you never know, it may time well with one of my workshops so sign up here to be updated of any happening.
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With love, Willow
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We absolutely loved Abbots Grange in Broadway.
Ooohhhh wonderful, beautiful, wow wow wow!! What magnificent climbing roses do you have climbing up your home. Would you choose the same ones if you had an opportunity to rechoose and are they good for cutting?